It was a cooler evening after the rain and that helped make for a good sleep. Overcast and slightly damp in the morning and aiming for only 22 degrees. Made a bit of a plan last night so after breakfast headed back down to the bridge and grabbed a coffee on the way. Very quite at 9 in the morning and stall holders just starting to set up. Dodged the groups of school kids making their way across the bridge and the early punters getting in their photos in front of landmarks. A couple of guys sitting patiently in boats in the river doing some fishing and a barge with a huge (advertising) beer bottle on board navigating it’s way up the river.
Walked up from the river and stopped at the St. Nicholas church (on Lesser Town). So full-on baroque it’s nearly overwhelming. Marble and frescoes galore and lots of St. Nicholas’. Found the lovely gardens (Wallenstein Gardens and Palace) adjoining the parliament/senate buildings and enjoyed a wander around them. Saw the fake stalactite grotto, giant carp in the pond and noisy peacocks (including an all white one) walking around. Snack of rolls with cheese and salami much appreciated. On to the palace after walking the streets and looking for the national gallery. Once there, saw some nice religious icons, an outdoor sculpture exhibition, an amazing creaking parquetry floor and a Bronzino portrait of Eleonora z Toleda. There was a security guard who paced around his set track like an automaton and kept uttering some guttural phrase under his breath whenever he turned around, a bit mad maybe? After that, found Wendy (who didn’t come to the gallery), rang the boys at home and all’s well with them. It was windy and cold, so jackets were on and we had to find a bench to sit and have some more food.
Wandered further up hill (Uvoz St.) to the Strahov library (in the Strahov Monastery of the Premonstratensian Order) which has a couple of very old libraries (philosophy and theology) dating back to the baroque. Amazing to see but you have to wonder when the last time the books where actually looked at, some are definitely looking a bit musty/mouldy. All the women working there looked like they might be related and they didn’t smile. seems to be a Czech trait, that you don’t respond to people with a smile. Haven’t seen many shop keepers who are outwardly pleased to see you, or people working in the galleries etc. that look they enjoy their job. There seem to be lots of tradesmen around (stone and cement repair) but I suppose it depends which part of the city you are. There were diplomat/politician types at the the senate buildings and I’m sure out in the suburbs things are different to the city. No idea what’s it’s like to be in the suburbs, but you can see the apartment block out or town a kilometer or two.
Found our way back down to the river via the Mala Strana area (saw a little dead mole on the track - different from a mouse or rat in that they are more like tube of fur rather than a tapered/pointy sack) and walked through the Praha 1 section and had a nice coffee, hot chocolate (the spoon nearly stood up in it!) and a glass of grog (hot rum drink) in a small cafe. Witnessed a fair bit of peak hour traffic with lots of cars (on the wrong side of the road) and the red and cream trams taking people somewhere.
Ended up crossing a bridge up from the Charles bridge and wandering back down the old city side of the river with late (7:00 pm) sunshine warming us a little. Had some minestrone and pizza (with beer) for dinner and back to the hostel around 10 pm. Did stop at the supermarket on the way back to get some stuff for tomorrow and also something for a nightcap, peanuts and some Becherovka (the national drink - herbal liqueur with cloves and aniseed). Tomorrow a bit more of Prague and then an afternoon train to Bratislava in Slovakia.
Walked up from the river and stopped at the St. Nicholas church (on Lesser Town). So full-on baroque it’s nearly overwhelming. Marble and frescoes galore and lots of St. Nicholas’. Found the lovely gardens (Wallenstein Gardens and Palace) adjoining the parliament/senate buildings and enjoyed a wander around them. Saw the fake stalactite grotto, giant carp in the pond and noisy peacocks (including an all white one) walking around. Snack of rolls with cheese and salami much appreciated. On to the palace after walking the streets and looking for the national gallery. Once there, saw some nice religious icons, an outdoor sculpture exhibition, an amazing creaking parquetry floor and a Bronzino portrait of Eleonora z Toleda. There was a security guard who paced around his set track like an automaton and kept uttering some guttural phrase under his breath whenever he turned around, a bit mad maybe? After that, found Wendy (who didn’t come to the gallery), rang the boys at home and all’s well with them. It was windy and cold, so jackets were on and we had to find a bench to sit and have some more food.
Wandered further up hill (Uvoz St.) to the Strahov library (in the Strahov Monastery of the Premonstratensian Order) which has a couple of very old libraries (philosophy and theology) dating back to the baroque. Amazing to see but you have to wonder when the last time the books where actually looked at, some are definitely looking a bit musty/mouldy. All the women working there looked like they might be related and they didn’t smile. seems to be a Czech trait, that you don’t respond to people with a smile. Haven’t seen many shop keepers who are outwardly pleased to see you, or people working in the galleries etc. that look they enjoy their job. There seem to be lots of tradesmen around (stone and cement repair) but I suppose it depends which part of the city you are. There were diplomat/politician types at the the senate buildings and I’m sure out in the suburbs things are different to the city. No idea what’s it’s like to be in the suburbs, but you can see the apartment block out or town a kilometer or two.
Found our way back down to the river via the Mala Strana area (saw a little dead mole on the track - different from a mouse or rat in that they are more like tube of fur rather than a tapered/pointy sack) and walked through the Praha 1 section and had a nice coffee, hot chocolate (the spoon nearly stood up in it!) and a glass of grog (hot rum drink) in a small cafe. Witnessed a fair bit of peak hour traffic with lots of cars (on the wrong side of the road) and the red and cream trams taking people somewhere.
Ended up crossing a bridge up from the Charles bridge and wandering back down the old city side of the river with late (7:00 pm) sunshine warming us a little. Had some minestrone and pizza (with beer) for dinner and back to the hostel around 10 pm. Did stop at the supermarket on the way back to get some stuff for tomorrow and also something for a nightcap, peanuts and some Becherovka (the national drink - herbal liqueur with cloves and aniseed). Tomorrow a bit more of Prague and then an afternoon train to Bratislava in Slovakia.
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