Bratislava-Budpes(h)t-6 1st June

Beautiful morning and had breakfast before heading out (around 8:30) to see the cemetery that Wendy had checked out earlier that morning. Through a park that was just waking up and to a walled cemetery that was like a walled park. Lots of birds, trees and shade, benches and a range of monuments. Very peaceful and quiet away from the busy streets. A lady was doing laps in her joggers and tracksuit and we found a nice place in the sun to sit and eat some delicacies from a bakery we’d past on the way. Had to be at the ferry port for 10 so went back , grabbed our bags, checked out, and stopped at Tesco to pick up some stuff for lunch. A short walk under sufferance (heavy packs - except Wendy had her 6kg wheelie thing happening) and down to the river.

On board the hydrofoil and pleasant cruising (although the old airplane seats are falling apart, the engines are noisy and the diesel fumes sneak in now and then) till we got to a lock at Gabckovo. Pulled up in time to fit in with a few other boats and found out that the difference in levels was 17 meters!. An interesting experience as it closed behind us and all the water was pumped/let out and we dropped down 6 stories... We had actually been traveling down a ‘managed’ section of the rier where the river is contained and the water used to generate hydro electricity. Lunch on the ferry and we sailed past Esztergom at 1:55 which was a town old Roman fortresses and ancient library etc. I suppose there are a few of those around this art of the world. The scenery then got a little hilly as we wound our way to Budapest.



Arrived about half an hour late and pulled up to the wharf after an amazing last few minutes of sailing past the city skyline from the vantage point of the river. Keith and Emmy where waiting at the quay! Had to go through passport control and then said gidday and had a big hug, fantastic to see each other on the other side of the world!

Bratislava-5 31st May

Thursday today, woke up to sunshine and promise. Let’s see Bratislava! Thought we’d start with the castle first so meandered our way through the old old and up the hill to the castle. Everything is old and lots of renovations going on behind the facades. The architecture is basically a 3-4 stories block with a courtyard that is entered from the street through a large gate (or cars etc.) which has a small door in it for people. Inside it’s either residential or offices and shops (which are also facing the street. Groups of tradesmen wear the same coloured overalls (purple, green or blue) depending on the company they work for. People seem happy though and want to help despite the language barrier.



The castle was fairly plain (like a big house not a medieval castle) and not even square, but had great views of the city and across the Danube. There was a barge making slow headway against the current, which we’ll be doing tomorrow on the hydrofoil. Lots of school groups on excursions visiting the historic places with their teachers (bit like going to Sovereign Hill...). Walked back down behind the castle and found a nice cafe for a latte and listened to a bit of Pink Floyd.

Had a great hearty lunch at the U Jakubu (soup and a mains) and we all tried something different. It’s a self serve type of place but you do ask them to put what you want on a plate. It’s quite popular and there was a queue out the door when we arrived. Had to rest up for a while to let it all settle before heading of towards the river via the St. Elizabeth’s Church (Blue church and under renovation) and past the university down to the riverside. Past a playground that seemed to be secure - like one way in and one way out... Then back into the old part of town and the Slovak national theatre building. Found a nice park bench and relaxed for a while before heading down the Hviezdoslavovo nam (boulevard). Back past the big St. Martin’s Cathedral and found an art gallery that Asher had a wander through. Went to a nice looking cafe but heir coffee machine was ‘kaput!’ so went to a takeaway for a nice coffee and strudel nd sat in the late afternoon sun enjoying that watching the security working at the American Embassy. Did a big loop back to the hostel via the Grassalkovich Presidential Palace (complete with two guards in old-style costumes) and the gardens behind, as well walking down the Obchodna mall.



Had a short rest and a cuppa before heading out for a pizza and quick stop at Tesco for some breakfast supplies and a wander though the streets to se how things are lit up at night. Very nice! It was quiet and easy to walk in the mild weather (although past 10:00 pm) looking up at the buildings lit up to make them look a little like cardboard cutouts. Walking back down the boulevard munching our way through a bag of potato chips (the salt burning my lips just right) and enjoying the ambiance of the low murmur from the sidewalk cafes and the (just the right amount of) people enjoying the evening stroll. A very pleasant way to finish the day.

Walked and walked everywhere again (a pedometer would be working overtime, like smoking even) but it’s the best way to absorb the sights and smells and the public transport takes time too. Tired at the end of the day and the feet are sore but it’s all good.

Bratislava-4 30th May

Made it onto the train for our first trip and found two seats facing each other with a table in between, yipee. Then we found out we had landed in a smoking section, yuck! Looked further into the carriage (past the barrier that said smoking one side and non-smoking on the other) and saw another set of seats. Moved down to them, and hoisted pack onto the racks and sat down in comfort, yipee! Three young people from Las Vegas sat opposite so we chatted a bit with them. They’re doing a whirlwind tour of most of Europe (left and right and top and bottom) in six weeks. They’ll be getting good value from the Eurail Pass!

Travelled through the Czech Republic covering some flat farm land for the 160kms and then got into low hills with forests and farms in the valleys. It’s all very green and lush. Haven’t seen many animals (only a few sheep) so must be mostly crop farming (seen some young corn). Got into Bratislava on time and used the ATM (bankomat) to get some Slovakian Korun. It’s very beautiful looking money, nice designs and great colours, and difficult to give it away. So as well as having value as a medium of exchange, it also has an aesthetic value. Caught the right tram (bought a ticket for 10 minutes and hoped there wasn’t a traffic jam!) into town and everything went smoothly getting to the hostel. Found the local Tesco supermarket and stocked up on food, had a late cuppa with some Slovakian delicacy/sweet bun and crashed! (I think crashing at the end of the day will be par for the course).

Prague-3 30th May

It’s Thursday and cool (long pants and a jumper today). Checked out and left our bags in storage and headed off the check out the railway station to validate our rail pass while Ash went to check out the Communist Museum. I don’t like public transport hubs like bus and rail stations, generally dirty, too many poor people trying to keep warm, beggars, scammers and drug dealers. They are excellent displays of the seedy side of life, are a bit depressing, and effect my sensitivity to the point of running away and not wanting to deal with anything. Anyway, took a deep breath and got in a queue for international tickets and waited ages for a couple of old ladies to sort out their business before we found out we were at the wrong station. Did find out which metro to catch to get to the correct one, got our ticket stamped with 30th May and made our back into the old town towards the Jewish quarter.



Tried to find a cafe with internet but lucked out and got a little frustrated of walking around sort of wasting time. Texted Ash and we rendezvoused for a coffee back in the Sq. Had a bit of a chat about our modus operandi with regard to doing stuff and sorted out some things. Decided to head back to pick up the packs and headed to the (proper) station. Found some postcards and a small book on Franz Kafka to spend the last of our money on. Bought tickets for the subway (you have to buy a half price ticket for your bags!) and did the down and up the escalator trick. Hung out the Holesovice station and found out that we could reserve a seat on the train (for an extra $15) but decided not to do it, had some lunch of rye bread, mustard, tomato, sausage and cheese washed down with milk. Rang Bratislava to confirm the hostel (made me feel better when they said they were expecting us) and used up our Czech phone card to ring home to let the boys know we were OK.

Prague-2 29th May

It was a cooler evening after the rain and that helped make for a good sleep. Overcast and slightly damp in the morning and aiming for only 22 degrees. Made a bit of a plan last night so after breakfast headed back down to the bridge and grabbed a coffee on the way. Very quite at 9 in the morning and stall holders just starting to set up. Dodged the groups of school kids making their way across the bridge and the early punters getting in their photos in front of landmarks. A couple of guys sitting patiently in boats in the river doing some fishing and a barge with a huge (advertising) beer bottle on board navigating it’s way up the river.

Walked up from the river and stopped at the St. Nicholas church (on Lesser Town). So full-on baroque it’s nearly overwhelming. Marble and frescoes galore and lots of St. Nicholas’. Found the lovely gardens (Wallenstein Gardens and Palace) adjoining the parliament/senate buildings and enjoyed a wander around them. Saw the fake stalactite grotto, giant carp in the pond and noisy peacocks (including an all white one) walking around. Snack of rolls with cheese and salami much appreciated. On to the palace after walking the streets and looking for the national gallery. Once there, saw some nice religious icons, an outdoor sculpture exhibition, an amazing creaking parquetry floor and a Bronzino portrait of Eleonora z Toleda. There was a security guard who paced around his set track like an automaton and kept uttering some guttural phrase under his breath whenever he turned around, a bit mad maybe? After that, found Wendy (who didn’t come to the gallery), rang the boys at home and all’s well with them. It was windy and cold, so jackets were on and we had to find a bench to sit and have some more food.

Wandered further up hill (Uvoz St.) to the Strahov library (in the Strahov Monastery of the Premonstratensian Order) which has a couple of very old libraries (philosophy and theology) dating back to the baroque. Amazing to see but you have to wonder when the last time the books where actually looked at, some are definitely looking a bit musty/mouldy. All the women working there looked like they might be related and they didn’t smile. seems to be a Czech trait, that you don’t respond to people with a smile. Haven’t seen many shop keepers who are outwardly pleased to see you, or people working in the galleries etc. that look they enjoy their job. There seem to be lots of tradesmen around (stone and cement repair) but I suppose it depends which part of the city you are. There were diplomat/politician types at the the senate buildings and I’m sure out in the suburbs things are different to the city. No idea what’s it’s like to be in the suburbs, but you can see the apartment block out or town a kilometer or two.



Found our way back down to the river via the Mala Strana area (saw a little dead mole on the track - different from a mouse or rat in that they are more like tube of fur rather than a tapered/pointy sack) and walked through the Praha 1 section and had a nice coffee, hot chocolate (the spoon nearly stood up in it!) and a glass of grog (hot rum drink) in a small cafe. Witnessed a fair bit of peak hour traffic with lots of cars (on the wrong side of the road) and the red and cream trams taking people somewhere.

Ended up crossing a bridge up from the Charles bridge and wandering back down the old city side of the river with late (7:00 pm) sunshine warming us a little. Had some minestrone and pizza (with beer) for dinner and back to the hostel around 10 pm. Did stop at the supermarket on the way back to get some stuff for tomorrow and also something for a nightcap, peanuts and some Becherovka (the national drink - herbal liqueur with cloves and aniseed). Tomorrow a bit more of Prague and then an afternoon train to Bratislava in Slovakia.

Prague-2b 29th May

It was actually quite a warm day and we heard that it got to 35 degrees. There was respite from the sunshine with clouds scudding across the sky to give some shade. Spectacular clouds formed later in the day and there were thunderstorms and, while it didn’t start raining, we did catch a few large drops on the way back over the river. Enjoyed some of the wholesome Czech culinary delights in the evening (downstairs at the Rudolphfina). Some duck and sauerkraut, beef and dumplings and chicken schnitzel and potato washed down with large mugs of beer. While in the restaurant I noticed people coming in with wet shoulders and realised the storm had broken. Walked back through the wet streets and as we got back to the old square, heard the end of a concert and watched the people come pouring out of the hall as the applause continued...

Prague-2 28th May

Slept like a dead man. Woke up around 7ish and felt refreshed but a bit overwhelmed on realising where we were. Ash took charge and walked us to a supermarket for some buttermilk, muesli and yoghurt, jam and a couple of cheese and bacon rolls. Found a bench under a tree and had a nice breakfast. Prices seem comparable with those at home - the thing that is cheaper is the beer (roughly $1 for a 500ml can, pub price is about $2.50 for 500ml). Walked around a bit (you seem to do that in Prague as the old city meanders everywhere, but if you keep walking you’ll end up where you want to be) and found a nice cafe for a latte and chatted while watching the city start to wake up.

Decided to go on a free walking tour of Prague (found a brochure at the hostel) and joined a group of 20 people at 10:30 am who were capably led by Libor. He’s part of a group of other entrepreneurs who have just started the free Prague tours (two weeks ago!) and ask that if you enjoyed the tour to show your appreciation by tipping the guide. We ended up walking for about three and a half hours (just about non-stop) and learnt heaps of the history of the city and Czech history and culture. We covered the Old and New Town, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge, Prague Castle and must have walked about 8-9 kms! Ash and I climbed the stairs in the Cathedral and had some great views of the city.



We did see some special places that are hidden behind large doors and gates. Rose gardens, amazing churches and quaint little alleys along with great examples of different architectural styles from the gothic through to rococo. In one of the old churches people flaunt the rules about photography and keeping quite. When I heard a mobile go off, I turned around ready to show someone me most scornful look only to see a cassocked priest (long black robe with the white rope knotted around his waist) answer his phone in dulcet ones and sounding like he was giving a liturgy, beautiful!

Lot’s of work going on in the city, renovations happening in the old buildings and cobble stones being repaired, big ones in the roads and small ones on the footpaths. It’s always worth it to look up and see what’s above your eyeline, reflections in windows, statues etc. on buildings, and roof lines are all interesting. It’s difficult to get a sense of the real city, business, university, government as it’s all in an other language and we’re really only focussing on the tourist things. Would be fun to spend a few weeks here and check out the art and music and other culture. Will check the email and post this before finding a place for dinner soon and then a nice long sleep...

London Heathrow-Gatwick

Arrived a little early but then spent 35 minutes parked on a runway waiting for other planes to move etc. The slowest part was getting through passport control and walked straight through customs. Found the coach and enjoyed a relaxing ride to Gatwick and made good time. Looks like it’s all coming together. Fingers crossed all goes smoothly with EasyJet. Can’t believe we’ll be in Prague tonight and will catch up with Asher.

It’s a long way from Hong Kong to London! 10,500 kms. and takes a long time (even at ~900kms and hour) especially when you are trying to sleep. We flew over China and Russia rather then the middle East (didn’t have to wonder why). The food was OK but we were in seats that got served last. The guy with the little skull cap a couple of rows ahead, seemed to get special (kosher) treatment every time (like first served). There were a few brave mums with little ones on their laps and (on this leg) I sat next to Hillary who has just retired from work and treated herself to a trip to Australia (Melbourne and the Barrier Reef). There was a bunch of chunky rugby players (from the army) at the back of the plane but didn’t hear from them. Watched the History Boys and something forgettable with Hugh Grant and about song writing. Read a bit of book and slept fitfully. Must try and get row 46 or 57 next time, they’re on the exits so lots of leg room (but next to the toilets!). Walking out of the plane it looked like a bomb had gone off. Rubbish, blankets, pillow, wrappers, sleeping masks and other rubbish everywhere! what a mess but not surprising considering the amount of people in the space.

Heathrow looks old, and quite a few turbans worn by staff at the airport. It’s not as organised as Tullamarine! The coach was comfortable and Wendy’s had a snooze. A motley crew on the bus, africans, french, indian and asians as well as the ubiquitous anglos. There’s only one colour outside the bus: GREEN. We were on a motor-way through some farms country with white sheep in the green meadows and the occasional field of yellow daisies.

Checked in at Gatwick early and had a wander, no seats anywhere except for a smattering at various ends of the terminal. Bought some food at Marks & Spencer so we wouldn’t get hungry on the plane. Once through customs/security back in retail heaven (need to keep reminding myself that a pound is over $2.60!), have an hour and a half to waste so will try to find a free wifi spot (out of about 8 networks that come up) and post this... If it works, talk to you from Prague... other wise, talk to you from Prague!

Prague-1 27th May

It was only a two hour flight in a new Airbus 319 and putting our clock forward an hour and we were in Praha. The real trip starts now. (have set my laptop to local time so hopefully the posts will be chronological)



Our eldest (who has been traveling for a couple of months already) met us at the airport and had brought some dinner (rye bread with salami and cheese with a beer to wash it down) and had organised tickets for us to get to town (a bus halfway in and then about 4 stops on the metro). Up a very long escalator (keep to the right if you’re not climbing) and into the old city at Mustek station. Another reality! Everything is cobble stones, windy (like, all over the place), buildings 3-5 stories high, lots of different smells, beggars, tourists with maps and all a fair bit to cope with at 11pm after traveling for about 32 hours! We walked through the old town square on the way to the hostel and it was packed with people for the millennium clock to chime the hour. Lots of languages being spoken, tour guides spruiking to tight knitted groups and the ubiquitous digital cameras flashing for all their worth.

Checked into the Tyn hostel after a few minutes walk from the sqaure and paid our 4600Kc (thank goodness for ATMs) for three nights. Had a great hot shower and washed off a fair bit of travel grime before crashing...

zee plane, zee plane

Melbourne to London (like, are we there yet?) equals nearly 24 hours of travel. QANTAS have been good with the food, watched The Pursuit of Happyness, talked to a sound engineer who was going to Hong Kong to test the noise that helicopters make, read a few pages of Confessions of a Thirteenth Man, slept fitfully (little girl in front of us kept having a sook). It’s all a bit rude trying to sleep in a room with 300-400 people and lots of attendants scurrying around.

Currently on the ground in Hong Kong for an hour and a bit and tried to have a power nap in the transit lounge. Very early in the morning so not much happening. I’m going to have to try get some more sleep on the next leg. Wendy’s got the aisle so can poke her legs out a little. The new rules for liquids make it a pain to carry water on and off the plane, it’s only a small hassle though.

Hove found the free wifi internet access so will post this along with the earlier scribble I did at Tullamarine. Can I be jealous of those lightweight travelers with only a wallet and their iPod?

Tullamarine-departure

Said goodbye to the Matt in Geelong and Reub’s drove us to the airport. Said our farewells on the ramp and wandered in and over to the checkin counter when I realised that I’d left my phone in the car! Didn’t have my phone so couldn’t ring to get Reubs to come back - so rang my own number and after a 7 minute panic Reubs pulled up outside (after doing a u turn on the freeway). Phew, hope I’ve got the moz out of the way doing that stunt.

Checked in (me 16.3 kg & Wendy 6.7 kg) lots of people in the queue with just a light bag and a few with the humungus 25 kg jobs. pushing the limits. Very cosmopolitan bunch, quite a few Asians heading home (we stop in HongKong) and smattering of everyone else. Sat down to fill in the forms and arrange the backpacks (managed to pack the sleeping tablets in my big pack!) had an apple and filled up on water. Watching the folk walking around the airport is engaging (rather then interesting) but everyone seems to be on a mission so there’s not much engagement other than furtive glances. The Indian girl pushing a small wheelchair, the tall dude with the long leather coat and the haircut, the elderly couple looking anxious and pacing back and forth, the airport staff with lots of accreditation around their necks, kids racing around in luggage trolleys, and the regular announcements over the loud speaker. “Could, Macollig Jusfahted and Lefderoom De Bahsted, please come to the Emirates counter”. ;-) Thought about buying some pounds but I’d booked the Heathrow-Gatwick coach just before we left so won’t need to buy a ticket.

So here we are, after all the organising and tidying loose ends (not like driving down to the block!) and heading off on long service leave. Have to remind my self that this is the reward for good and faithful service. Will be fun to see a bit of Eastern Europe, attend the Thinking Conference in Norrköping (look it up on Google Earth) and then spend time in Holland visiting the relatives. I’m glad we are finally on our way and looking forward to seeing Ash in Prague. I’ve been feeling the stress of it all and hope that now we’re on our way things will settle down a bit I can relax and enjoy the ride.

nothing happening yet

still a week to go, so come visit again on the 26th May...